Leon Baking & Puddings is heaven sent for those of us with a sweet tooth. However, the twist is that three-quarters of the recipes are free from wheat, dairy or sugar and there are many vegan and gluten free choices too.
Leon – the Restaurant
The first Leon restaurant opened in London’s Carnaby Street in 2004 and there are now 11 restaurants which serve around 70,000 customers a week (mainly in London). Founders Henry Dimbleby, John Vincent and Allegra McEvedy aim to bring fresh, healthy produce to the often maligned fast food concept. The restaurants (stylish but comfortable) speedily serve up nutritious, international food to take away or eat in (via cardboard cartons). Having recently sampled a taste bud awakening chocolate brownie at one of the restaurants, I was excited to get my hands on a cookbook which might reveal some of the sweet secrets of the Leon kitchens.
Overview
The book is co-authored by restaurant co-founder Henry Dimbleby and renowned chef Claire Ptak and is split into 4 sections. There is an introductory “How to” guide which aims to assist users with ingredients, tools and techniques. It is worth noting that not all recipes are sweet -there are plenty of savoury options, including breads and tarts.
Part One recipes deals with Everyday – from breakfast (granolas, muffins), teatime (pies, cakes, scones) and puddings (from steamed puds to meringues). In this section there are recipes aimed at cooking with children (cut out biscuits) and encouragement to make your own confectionery (marshmallows and honeycomb).
In Part Two the recipes are designed for celebratory occasions – from Easter and Christmas to Valentine’s Day, Halloween and Thanksgiving. Extra Helpings at the end of the book is mainly an exploration of (more unusual) pies – something Leon are considering introducing to their restaurant menu.
Assessment and Recommendation
Leon Baking & Puddings is a joy to read. It has an informal style which is enhanced by the amusing snaps and anecdotes which pepper the core of recipes. There is a homely retro style to the illustrations, whilst the colourful fonts add a touch of fashionable vintage kitsch. This is a cookbook designed to be used and abused. My copy is already splattered with chocolate, sticky with sugar and slightly damp around the edges from my steamy kitchen.
As somebody who is unable to eat wheat, I found it a revelation to have recipes so well labelled in terms of ingredients (Wheat Free, Gluten Free, Dairy Free etc). The user-friendly index also allows you to search for recipes which are, for example, low in sugar. The introductory guide to flour is invaluable and I will now be seeking out nutrient rich Buckwheat flour as an alternative to other wheat-free options (described in this book as the so-called “king of healing grains”).
The book can be enjoyed by novice and more experienced cooks as there is a guidance rating to recipes (from beginner to feeling brave). The introductory section on tools and techniques increases the accessibility of the book and there are additional tutorials on topics such as bread-making. A first aid section even allows you to trouble shoot baking disasters, such as sunken cakes. The diversity of recipes mean that you can enjoy homemade breakfast cereal (granola), try baking bread (including gluten-free) or be adventurous and make a special birthday cake.
The wholesome, organic, sustainable, fair-trade ethos of the Leon brand also embraces the joy of cooking and eating good food. This book is an encouragement to bake – to dig out your oven gloves, make a mess of your kitchen and enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Publication Information
Leon – Baking & Puddings by Claire Ptak & Henry Dimbleby
Octopus Books, 2011
ISBN: 978-1-84091-579-2
Jacqui Taylor - I am a part-time librarian, art student and writer. Previously I have done a wide range of jobs - from selling theatre tickets to teaching ...
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